Undersized gas pipework is a hidden fault: the appliance still lights, but it's starved of gas, the pressure sags under load, and combustion suffers. Sizing pipe correctly is about delivering enough gas to every appliance at the same time without losing too much pressure on the way. This guide covers the sizing method and the installation rules that go with it. It's revision material — only a Gas Safe registered engineer may install gas pipework.

Standard. Low-pressure domestic installation pipework up to 35 mm is covered by BS 6891 (current edition 2015). Larger and medium-pressure work uses IGEM/UP/2. Manufacturer's instructions and the current standard always take precedence over any rule of thumb here.

The one number that drives everything: 1 mbar

The supply arrives at roughly 21 mbar at the meter for natural gas. BS 6891 allows a maximum pressure loss of just 1 mbar from the meter outlet to any appliance at full demand. That tiny margin is what forces you to think about pipe diameter and length: the longer or narrower the run, the more pressure it drops. (For LPG the permitted drop is 2.5 mbar.)

Step 1 — turn appliances into a gas flow

Pipe-sizing tables work in gas flow (m³/h), so first convert each appliance's input. A handy approximation for natural gas is:

Gas flow (m³/h) ≈ appliance input (kW) × 0.095   (or kW ÷ 10.3)

So a 24 kW combi draws about 2.3 m³/h. Add up the flows for the appliances a given section must feed.

Step 2 — work out the equivalent length

Every bend, elbow and tee adds resistance, so you don't size on the straight measured length alone. Each fitting is given an equivalent length — a few extra "virtual" metres added to the measured run. Add the measured length and all the fitting allowances to get the total equivalent length for the section.

Step 3 — pick a size and check the drop

Take BS 6891's pipe-sizing table for your material (copper or steel), find the row for your flow rate and chosen diameter, and read off the pressure loss per metre. Multiply that by the total equivalent length:

Total pressure loss = loss per metre × total equivalent length

If the result is more than 1 mbar, the pipe is too small — step up a diameter and try again. In practice most domestic runs use 22 mm or 28 mm copper from the meter, reducing to 15 mm at individual appliance spurs.

Worked example (method). A 24 kW combi at the end of a 10 m run with a few elbows: convert 24 kW → ~2.3 m³/h; add fitting allowances to the 10 m to get the equivalent length; look up the loss/metre for 22 mm copper at 2.3 m³/h; multiply out. If it exceeds 1 mbar, move to 28 mm. The exact figures come from the BS 6891 table in front of you.

Diversity — a sensible reality check

Not every appliance runs flat out at once. Diversity is the recognition that, in many installations, the simultaneous demand is less than the simple sum of all appliances. It's applied with care and judgement — never as an excuse to undersize a run that genuinely could see full demand. For straightforward domestic jobs, sizing for the realistic peak is the safe default.

Installation essentials

Sizing is only half the job. BS 6891 also governs how pipe is run and protected:

Finish with a tightness test

New or altered pipework is always tightness tested before it's commissioned, following IGEM/UP/1B. Sizing and installing the pipe correctly is what lets that test pass first time.

  1. Max drop: 1 mbar meter-to-appliance for natural gas (2.5 mbar LPG).
  2. Convert input to flow: m³/h ≈ kW × 0.095.
  3. Equivalent length: measured length + fitting allowances.
  4. Check: loss/metre × equivalent length must be ≤ 1 mbar, or size up.
  5. Typical sizes: 22/28 mm copper from the meter, 15 mm spurs.
  6. Sleeve & seal through walls; bond within 600 mm of the meter before any branch.
  7. Underground: yellow MDPE, ≥375 mm deep (450 under roads), marker tape; never PE above ground inside.

10-Question Mock Test

Click an option to see whether you got it right. Explanations appear instantly — no submitting at the end.

Your score: 0 / 10
Question 1 of 10
Under BS 6891, the maximum pressure drop from the meter to any appliance (natural gas) is:
Question 2 of 10
Approximately what gas flow does a 24 kW appliance need on natural gas?
Question 3 of 10
Why do we use "equivalent length" rather than just the measured pipe length?
Question 4 of 10
Your sizing calc gives a total pressure loss of 1.4 mbar for the chosen pipe. What do you do?
Question 5 of 10
Which is a typical pipe size for an individual appliance spur?
Question 6 of 10
Pipe passing through a wall is sleeved and:
Question 7 of 10
Main equipotential bonding to the gas installation is connected:
Question 8 of 10
Which material is used for buried (underground) gas pipe?
Question 9 of 10
Why avoid running and jointing gas pipe in an inaccessible, unventilated void?
Question 10 of 10
Before new pipework is put into use, you must:

Sizing tables make sense on the bench. Lock them in before the test.

PlumbMate drills the BS 6891 essentials — the 1 mbar rule, equivalent lengths, bonding and protection — with quizzes and spaced repetition mapped to the gas ACS tickets.

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